Marrakech

Marrakech sits in central Morocco, on a plain between the Atlas Mountains and the arid stretches to the south. Locals sometimes call it the Red City because of the reddish clay used in its old walls and many of its buildings. The place splits roughly into two halves. There's the medina, the walled old town, a dense tangle of narrow lanes, workshops, and souks where getting lost is more or less guaranteed. Then there's Gueliz, the newer district laid out under French rule in the early twentieth century, with wider streets, cafes, and modern shops. Most first-time visitors base themselves in or near the medina, since much of what draws people here is within walking distance once you're inside the walls.

The city works well as a base rather than just a stopover. Jardin Majorelle, a botanical garden on the edge of the newer part of town, is one of the more visited spots and sits an easy taxi ride from the old quarter. If you want to get out of the city, Trekking Atlas Mountains is a common day trip or multi-day option, with the peaks close enough to see on a clear day and reachable by road in a couple of hours. Between these you'll find the usual rhythm of the medina: tanneries, spice stalls, and the large open square that fills up in the evening with food vendors. Haggling is normal in the souks, and prices for the same item can vary a lot, so it pays to look around before buying.

A few practical things. Spring and autumn are the more comfortable seasons; summer gets very hot, and midday in July or August can be hard going. Friday is the main day of prayer, and some smaller shops close or open late. Cash is still king in the medina, though larger restaurants and hotels take cards. Dress is fairly relaxed in tourist areas, but modest clothing is appreciated, especially away from the busy centre and near religious sites. Marrakech has an international airport a short drive from the centre, and it connects by train to Casablanca and the coast, though not directly to the mountains.