Princes' Islands

About Princes' Islands

The Princes' Islands are a small chain of nine islands in the Sea of Marmara, off the Asian side of Istanbul. Under Byzantine and Ottoman rule they were a place of exile, which is where the name comes from, and later a summer retreat for wealthy Istanbul families. That history is still visible in the streets: rows of ornate wooden mansions, old Greek Orthodox and Armenian churches, and a general pace that has little to do with the city you left behind on the ferry. Four of the islands take visitors, and Buyukada, the largest, is the one most day trips head for.

Cars are effectively banned across the islands, which is a big part of the appeal. Getting around means walking, cycling, or taking an electric shuttle, since the horse-drawn carriages that were once the standard way to tour the hills were phased out. On Buyukada the classic route is the climb up to the Monastery of St. George, a Greek Orthodox church on the island's highest point, reached by a steep path lined with wishing trees. Heybeliada, the second-largest, is quieter and greener, with pine woods and a former naval school. Smaller Burgazada and Kinaliada round out the four, each easy enough to see on foot.

The islands are reached by ferry from Istanbul, most commonly from Kabatas or Eminonu on the European side and Bostanci or Kadikoy on the Asian side. The crossing takes roughly an hour to ninety minutes depending on which pier you leave from and how many islands the boat calls at. Plan a full day if you want to reach more than one island, and go early in summer, when both the ferries and the beaches fill up. Spring and autumn are more comfortable for walking and cycling. There's no single ticket for the islands themselves; you're free to wander, and you pay only for the ferry, bike hire, or any beach club you choose to use.