Istanbul

Istanbul sits on both sides of the Bosphorus, the strait that separates Europe from Asia, which makes it the rare city where you can cross continents on a commuter ferry. That split shapes almost everything about a visit. Most first-time travellers base themselves on the European side, either in Sultanahmet, the old peninsula where the big historic sites cluster, or across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu, closer to the Galata Tower and the newer bars and restaurants. The Asian side, around Kadikoy and Uskudar, is quieter and more residential, and worth a ferry trip even if you don't stay there.

The headline sights are close together in Sultanahmet. Sultanahmet Square alone puts you within walking distance of Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque), the Basilica Cistern, and the open-air antiquities of the Obelisk of Theodosius, the Serpent Column and the German Fountain. Topkapi Palace and the Istanbul Archaeological Museums are a short walk uphill, and the Grand Bazaar is close enough to fold into the same day. Beyond the old city, the Bosphorus shoreline is lined with Ottoman palaces such as Dolmabahce Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and Yildiz Palace, while sights like the Maiden's Tower, Rumeli Fortress and the Chora Church (Kariye Mosque) sit a little further out. Note that several of these have working religious or restricted status. Hagia Sophia is a functioning mosque again, with tourist entry arranged separately from worship, and the Blue Mosque is an active mosque that's best visited outside prayer times.

Practically speaking, an Istanbulkart travel card covers the metro, trams, buses and ferries, and is by far the easiest way to move around. Traffic on the roads is heavy, so the tram and ferry usually beat a taxi across the centre. Give yourself more time than a map suggests, since queues and security checks at the major sites can be slow in high season. Many mosques ask for modest dress, so it helps to carry a scarf and wear clothes that cover shoulders and knees. Some sites are free, others need a paid ticket, and a few, like the Basilica Cistern, now run evening sessions as well as daytime ones, so it's worth checking current visiting arrangements before you go.