Izmir

Izmir sits on the Aegean coast of Turkiye, wrapped around a long bay that gives the city its mild climate and its habit of turning toward the water. It is the country's third-largest city, a working port with a long history of trade, and it tends to feel more relaxed than Istanbul. Life here happens outdoors a lot of the year: along the Kordon waterfront promenade, in the tangle of the Kemeralti bazaar, and in the tea gardens up in the old Kadifekale hilltop district. If you are flying in, Adnan Menderes Airport connects to the centre by train and metro, and the city itself is fairly easy to cross on public transport, including ferries that hop across the bay.

Most first-time visitors use Izmir as a base as much as a destination in its own right. The big draw in the wider region is Ephesus Ancient City, one of the best-preserved classical sites anywhere, reachable as a day trip toward Selcuk. Beyond that, the coastline running south and west is dotted with seaside towns like Cesme, known for its beaches and windsurfing, and there are hot springs and old Greek villages within easy driving distance. In the city proper you will find the Roman-era Agora, the seafront clock tower at Konak Square, and enough waterfront cafes and fish restaurants to fill several evenings.

Practically speaking, spring and autumn are the most comfortable times to visit, since July and August get hot and busy along the coast. Izmir is generally considered easygoing and secular by Turkish standards, and lighter clothing is fine in the city, though you will want to cover up if you visit a working mosque. Cash is handy in the bazaar and at smaller stalls, while cards work almost everywhere else. Individual sites and tours are listed further down this page, each with its own details on tickets and access.